Caviar topped Blintzes are a traditional high-end hors d’oeuvre. I love caviar, but somehow when it’s passed and presented on top of tepid, limp pancakes that I’d better eat in one bite if I don’t want to risk caviar down the front of my special cocktail party frock, it loses whatever panache it was supposed to reflect.

But the flavor and texture idea of caviar, crème fraiche and a soft, mild starch is great.

Bring in the Cossacks and their Russian Pancakes.

Clockwise from the top smoked salmon, creme fraiche, caper and shaved red onion, chevre, tapenade and fresh tarragon; creme fraiche, caviar and lemon.

Here’s why they work as an easy, delicious starter course. First, they are unbelievably easy to make. Second, their light almost soufflé texture complements the salty flavor of caviar doing precisely what an “appetizer” should which is wake up the appetite. Third, you get to eat them hot, at the table and with a fork.

Hints

1. The taste experience of this appetizer is all about contrasts of flavor, texture and temperature. I added smoked salmon and tapenade for the fun of three different flavor combinations.
2. The caviar, smoked salmon and tapenade should be cool, not cold. The crème fraiche and cream cheese should be cold. The garnishes should be at room temperature. THE PANCAKES SHOULD BE HOT. And the plates should be quite warm.
3. There is nothing difficult about this recipe, but the moving parts need to come together quickly. I recommend that you do all the condiment prepping before you start to cook the pancakes. Put the prepared condiment parts into separate dishes and line them up so putting it all together will be fast and the pancakes will be served hot. Put small spoons, forks or whatever utensils you will need next to each dish.
4. Making this appetizer for 4 people is fine for one cook. I wouldn’t try it for more than that without extra hands to help fry the pancakes and put them together. If you are serving more than two people, use a griddle and cook all the pancakes at once.

Ingredients

1 batch Russian Pancakes
1.5 oz. Smoked salmon, lox style, chopped
1 tbs. shaved red onion strips
16 capers
1/3 cup crème fraiche
3 tbs. Tapenade
3 tbs. Caviar
1 slice fresh lemon, cut into wedges
1 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon (or basil or flat leaf parsley)

Procedure

1. Preheat oven to 200º and put plates in to warm. Butter and heat a platter or rimmed sheet pan large enough to hold the cooked pancakes in one layer, about 2” apart.
2. Fry pancakes and put them on the heated, buttered platter or pan.
3. Put circles of crème fraiche on each pancake leaving about ½” rim of pancake showing. Divide salmon, caviar and tapenade among the 12 pancakes. Top the mounds of salmon with shaved onion and capers, the caviar with a lemon wedge and the tapenade with fresh herbs.
4. Using a spatula, transfer three different pancakes to each of the four heated appetizer plates and serve immediately.