A Fabulous Fish Market
On the Harbor Way pier in Santa Barbara, behind an inauspicious screen door is the tiny Santa Barbara Fish Market where local fishermen sell some of the freshest and best seafood I have purchased. Five or six customers barely fit into the retail space that has only two 6’ long display cases, a tank for live crab, lobster and occasional abalone, and a small refrigerated case for packaged and prepared sauces, condiments and salads. The counter holds a basket of home grown lemons, a pile of brochures, some business cards and a hand written message for Josh taped to the single cash register. One or two relaxed and cheerful young sellers help customers while behind them at long sink rubber-clad workers clean, cut, fillet and skin huge fish. After five minutes inside that screen door you can feel the tell tale buzz of a place that keeps its marbles shined and ready to play.
Years ago John Russell who sold fish at Pike Place Market’s Pure Food Fish Market in Seattle taught me how to buy fish. He told me to trust the seller because they are the ones who know what is fresh, high quality and fairly priced. “It just takes one time,” he said. “Ask what is best and then buy it. If it isn’t right, bring it back or call the store and tell the guy who sold it to you what you thought. If the store is reputable, you’ll get your money back and it will never happen again.”
That was twenty years ago, and with very few exceptions, I have bought great fish ever since.
I would add a couple of things to John’s advice. 1. Only buy fish from a person trained in seafood; if a clerk doesn’t know the answer, skip the fish idea and go somewhere else. 2. Get a business card with a name and telephone number. Call that person after you have eaten the fish and tell him or her what you thought of it. This is especially true if you think the person steered you toward exceptional fish or seafood. If you report back and keep engaged, you will be pegged as a customer who cares.
Back to Santa Barbara. On the advice of the handsome young seller, I bought 1# (12-14 per #) of fresh local prawns, a 1# filet of local black cod and a 2# piece of mahi mahi.
The prawns were sweet, succulent and firm. Quick sauté in olive oil and topped with a quick sauce of parsley, one of those home-grown lemons, fresh garlic, olive oil and bread crumbs.
The mahi mahi was spectacular. Firm, shiny and completely odorless, it was as good as those I have caught and eaten the same day. The filet served three different meals for two people. See the next few postings for the recipes.
The black cod is in the freezer for a couple of more days; the recipe will be posted then.